Tailor s ihstbtjmewt and the mode of measuring garments



V2T line of horizontal leg A B, from the top DNTTED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

LEWIS FLENNER, OF PHILADELIHlA COUNTY, PENNSYLVANIA.

TAILORS INSTRUMENT AND THE MODE OF MEASURING GARMENTS.

Specification of Letters Patent No.

To all La/zomz' may concern.'

Be it known that l, LEWIS FLnnNnR, of the county of ljhiladelphia and State of Pennsylvania, have invented a new and uset'ul lmprovement called a Graduatorf7 to be Applied to the Drafting of All Kinds of Coats by Shoulder and Center Measurement.

The graduator is used only for drafting by shoulder and center measurement both of which viz (shoulder and center measurement) have been in existence some years but not applied as follows or by means of a graduator oit this construction, the shoulder measure is taken with a tape or leather measure with inches half and quarter inches marked on, it is placed on the back of neck at the socket bone and from that 'point run around under the front of arnr and up the back to meet the same point started from; the center measure is taken by placing the tape or leather measure as before stated) on the back of coat directly between the arms of the person in the center of the back and passed over the top of shoulder and under the liront of arm and back to meet the same point started from. After these measures are thus taken they are then applied to the graduator in the manner following: First measure some person with a. tape or leather measure (as before described). Suppose he or they should draw 27 inches shoulder and 27 inches center measure, then cut a back according to taste or fashion (without the graduator) then place the graduator on the cloth or other material and draw a line down the front of perpendicular leg, A D. To get the front of leg and front of shoulder point and draw a line at the bottom of horizontal leg A, B. To get the bottom of leg, and then draw a line down the diagonal part of graduator from C to E, and take a square edge (or ruler) and place it on the of diagonal line, C E, on the 27 line and draw line down over the outer edge some 1G or 18 inches, which when the back is placed inside the line so drawn will give the proper points in at the hip and top of side seam; then take the square edge (or ruler) place it on the 27 line of perpendicular leg, A D, largest scale and draw a line from the front oi' graduator on the 27 line extending over the inner edge some 8 or 10` inches when the back is placed inside this line so drawn will give the proper point of front of shoulder at the top of neck and proper point of 2,341, dated November 10, 1841.

shoulder at the top of arm, then take the square edge (or ruler) place it at the Q7 smallest scale front of perpendicular leO A D and draw line out from the graduator which will be the proper height of neck in front of coat, then take the graduator oit the cloth or other material marked on and place the backs first eut inside of lines drawn by the graduator, and the points specified will be shown.

The graduator is a square made of wood met-al or ivory, and is constructed as follows. The horizontal leg from A to B is 19?, inches long, and three inches wide at the outer end of B to C, the perpendicular leg from A to D is 1S inches long on its outer edge, and linches wide from top to bottom, the horizontal leg A B is 1;- inches wide at the inner edge from E to F. To procure the proper angle of horizontal leg A B draw a line fromv C at the outer edge to A at the outer point of the angle of square, then divide the distance from A to C one half of the measure which will be nine and -j inches to C, then divide the remainder from E to C into 1S equal parts to be numbered from 18 to 36 each of which parts are again to be subdivided, then divide the perpendicular leg A D into two equal parts on the outer edge of square which will be nine inches from bottom of square A to G, and from G to D the remaining nine inches to be divided into 1S half and 3G quarter inches. The half inches to be numbered from 18 to 36, then come down the diagonal line of horizontal leg from C to H 1S inches toward the outer point of angle at A, then place a square at H on the diagonal line to the top of perpendicular leg at D to draw the lines on the perpendicular leg of the square, the other lines on the perpendicular leg are drawn parallel with the 1irst line drawn at- D (36 line), then place a square from D to C to draw line 36 on horizontal leg of square (A B) and all the other lines -on the horizontal leg are drawn to correspond in the same manner with the corresponding numbers on the perpendicular leg A D, then place a square on the 24 line at the outer edge of perpendicular leg A D, and across to the inner edge of diagonal line (C E) at the 24 line on horizontal leg and the same will be the result. All these lines are at right angles with their corresponding numbers on the perpendicular leg A D largest scale. The Second (or male agonal division lines on said leg, the other arm or leg being graduated in the manner set forth also the employment of said graduator so constructed in combination With the shoulder and center 'measures for drafting garments, the same being applied and operating in manner described.

p LEWIS FLENNER.

Witnesses EMANL. G. KROMER, ABRAHAM MYERS. 

